A day at the New York Cafe in Ketchikan, Alaska
Sunny days in January are something to treasure in Southeast Alaska. The rain has been coming down in sideways sheets for four months and the break in the clouds is revered by locals. On this beautiful Friday in Ketchikan, I make my way across the old red bridge that spans the length of Ketchikan Creek where the salmon head upstream to spawn in the late summer, and donning my mask I duck into the warmth of the New York Cafe. The length of the small restaurant is covered in floor to ceiling windows looking out at the harbor dotted with fishing boats and the snow-capped mountains across the channel. The sun is streaming through in beams, casting an otherworldly glow to the group of Alaskans huddled inside chatting and enjoying their lunch. The red, black, and white tile floor along with the dark wood walls donned in locals’ artwork makes the room feel like home.
We snack on pickled anchovies spread on toasted bread at a small round table next to the window while we wait for the owner, Raffy Tavidigian, and the New York Cafe’s chef, Ryan Cornwall. I have yet to be disappointed with a dish from the New York Cafe. They source many of their ingredients locally; fish from fisherman, local small businesses that sell produce and foraged food, and any other Alaskan grown ingredients they can get their hands on. When our hosts are ready for us we slip through an alleyway next to the restaurant and into a well-lit prep kitchen. The metal tables in the center of the room are prepared with ramekins filled with all the ingredients Chef Ryan will need for this special dish. The kelp has already been blanched (60 seconds in boiling water and then placed into an ice bath) and sits folded in on itself in long green ribbons. Soon, the team is set up and Chef Ryan begins to work his magic.
The whole process takes less than thirty minutes and soon we are sitting back in the warm dining area with a plate of kelp gnocchi before us. The gnocchi is fluffy and light with a crisp coating that crackles a bit as you bite into it. Each bite is covered in creamy kelp pesto sauce and we could not get enough. The beautiful gnocchi, the mild umami taste of kelp, and the extra sprinkle of parmesan made for an absolutely delightful Alaskan dish. Before long we have devoured the plate of gnocchi with plans already being made to come back for more. Luckily, our day is not yet done and it is with happy bellies that we take the chance to sit down and chat with Raffy and Chef Ryan about one of our favorite subjects – kelp. As our hosts believe, kelp is here to stay and has a bright future in kitchens across the country. Who knows, they pondered, soon they may be known for their use of fresh Alaskan kelp in their dishes!
The potential when it comes to cooking with kelp is vast and we look forward to diving into different recipes to bring to both professional and home chefs. Kelp is the ingredient of the future and not only is it a healthy option packed with vitamins and nutrients but it is also a net positive and enhances the waters that it is grown in. And we think that’s pretty neat. We had an amazing time working with and learning from our friends at the New York Cafe and encourage anyone who is in or may visit Ketchikan, Alaska to pay them a visit. You are sure to find good conversation and a meal you won’t forget.
